Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Étoile

From a tiny Jura appellation named for the star-shaped fossils in its limestone soil. This is Chardonnay made the old Jura way, nutty and saline with a faint sherry-like edge. It tastes like a cold cellar, a stone farmhouse and a long winter of reading. It is for curious drinkers who like their whites with a few secrets.